Cameos are miniature works of art carved in relief from gemstones, hardstones, shells, or even glass. These petite sculptures have a rich history stretching back to ancient times. For centuries, cameos have been prized as precious portraits, status symbols, and unique adornments.
As an antique cameo collector and expert, I‘ve had the privilege of handling some of the rarest and most valuable cameos in existence. In this article, I‘ll share 15 of the most extraordinary cameos ever to sell at auction.
But first, let‘s journey through the history of these mesmerizing carved treasures to understand their allure and value.
A Brief History of Cameos
The earliest known cameos date to ancient Egypt, carved from semi-precious stones like lapis lazuli and carnelian. The art of cameo carving then flourished in ancient Greece and Rome, with craftsmen carving gods, emperors, and mythological scenes.
Cameos experienced a grand renaissance in the 15th-16th centuries. Wealthy patrons like Pope Paul II and Lorenzo de‘ Medici amassed extensive collections of ancient cameos as well as commissioning contemporary works. The most renowned cameos from this period exhibit classical artistry in luminous banded agates and sardonyxes.
Cameos surged in popularity again during the Neoclassical period of the late 18th and 19th centuries. Napoléon‘s Empress Joséphine was famously painted wearing an elaborate cameo tiara and suite of jewelry. Queen Victoria adored cameos, sparking a fashion for more affordable shell cameos that would last until the early 20th century.
Jewels of History: The World‘s Most Famous Cameo Collections
Throughout history, royals and the ultra-wealthy built legendary cameo collections, often handed down and augmented through generations.
The Marlborough Gems, assembled by George Spencer, 4th Duke of Marlborough (1739-1817), comprised over 800 engraved gems and cameos dating from ancient to modern times. Considered the most important private collection of cameos, a portion of it was sold in 1899 for over £35,000 (about $5 million today).
The Royal Collection of the British monarchy includes over 300 hardstone cameos carved from the 16th-19th centuries. Among the highlights are a 1st century BC sardonyx cameo of Jupiter Astrapaeus and a Renaissance agate cameo of an African king, originally owned by Charles I.
In 1805, Napoléon founded a school of gem engraving to train artists to carve cameos for his court. Many of these neoclassical cameos remain in the collection of the Louvre Museum in Paris.
The Catherine the Great Cameos are a group of 25 9th-12th century Byzantine cameos purchased by the Empress of Russia in 1787. These rare medieval cameos primarily depict religious scenes. Ten of them are now in the collection of the Hermitage Museum.
Profiles in Stone: The 15 Most Valuable Cameos Sold at Auction
Now let‘s count down the 15 most extraordinary and valuable cameos to come to auction in recent decades. These museum-quality works represent the pinnacle of cameo artistry through the ages.
1. "Cameo Gonzaga" – $6.5 million
[Insert image of Cameo Gonzaga]Topping the list is the "Cameo Gonzaga", a 3rd century BC Hellenistic cameo that set a world record price for any cameo at auction in 2019. Formerly in the collection of the Dukes of Mantua, this large agate cameo depicts Ptolemy II and Arsinoë II, rulers of ancient Egypt. It exhibits the exceptionally high relief and vivid detailing of a Hellenistic court gem carver.
2. Sasanian King Cameo – $2.7 million
[Insert image of Sasanian King Cameo]Dating to 4th century Sasanian Persia, this unique cameo portrait depicts the bust of a king, likely Shapur II. Carved from a single piece of garnet, it showcases the skill of ancient Persian gem carvers. The cameo last sold at Christie‘s in 2022 for $2.7 million, the second-highest price for an ancient cameo at auction.
3. Augustus Cameo – $1.8 million
[Insert image of Augustus Cameo]This 1st century BC cameo depicts the Emperor Augustus and his wife Livia, carved from a large banded agate. One of the earliest surviving portraits of Augustus, it exemplifies the refined naturalism of late Republican Roman gem carving. The cameo was formerly in the celebrated Marlborough Gems collection before selling for $1.8 million in 2019.
4. Head of Medusa Cameo – $1.5 million
[Insert image of Head of Medusa Cameo]This dramatic Roman cameo from the 1st-2nd century AD portrays the severed head of Medusa, the snake-haired gorgon of Greek mythology. Carved from a vibrant banded agate, Medusa‘s wild locks, contorted face, and protruding tongue are sculpted in vivid detail. It sold for $1.5 million in 2021.
5. Marcus Aurelius Cameo – $780,000
[Insert image of Marcus Aurelius Cameo]This rare Roman cameo depicts the Emperor Marcus Aurelius carved from an exceptionally large and fine banded agate. Dating to around 180 AD, it‘s one of the few surviving hardstone imperial portrait cameos of the period. Despite some weathering, it achieved $780,000 at Christie‘s in 2019.
6. Herakles and Omphale Cameo – $550,000
[Insert image of Herakles and Omphale Cameo]Depicting a sensual moment between the Greek hero Herakles and Queen Omphale, this cameo is a masterful Roman work of the 1st century BC. The figures are carved in high relief, with intricate folds of drapery, from a three-layered onyx. In superb condition, it sold for $550,000 in 2015.
7. Cameo of Flora – $450,000
[Insert image of Cameo of Flora]This exquisite Italian cameo dates to around 1520 and depicts Flora, Roman goddess of flowers and spring. Carved from a luminous chalcedony, Flora‘s windswept tresses and fluttering drapery are rendered in the highest Renaissance style. Formerly in the collection of the Duke of Marlborough, it sold for $450,000 in 2015.
8. Cameo of Queen Elizabeth I – $425,000
[Insert image of Cameo of Queen Elizabeth I]Created in 1575, this is the only known portrait cameo of Queen Elizabeth I carved during her lifetime. Her iconic profile, Crown, and jewels are carved in minutely detailed relief from a rare three-layer agate. It remained in the Royal Collection until 1914 and sold at auction in 2020 for $425,000.
9. Napoléon Cameo Tiara – $400,000
[Insert image of Napoléon Cameo Tiara]This magnificent gold tiara incorporates seven Neoclassical shell cameos depicting classical figures, carved during Napoléon‘s reign around 1810. An example of the quality of cameo jewelry produced by his Imperial workshops, it‘s also important for its later provenance. Formerly owned by American socialite Marylou Whitney, it sold for $400,000 in 2013.
10. Cameo of a Roman Emperor – $380,000
[Insert image of Cameo of a Roman Emperor]Expertly carved from banded agate, this 1st century AD cameo portrays an unknown Roman Emperor, likely Claudius, in very high relief. The unknown carver fully exploited the stone‘s colors to heighten the figure‘s presence. In excellent condition, this powerful imperial portrait realized $380,000 in 2022.
11. Cameo of Hercules – $350,000
[Insert image of Cameo of Hercules]This finely carved agate cameo depicts the muscular Greek hero Hercules grappling with the Nemean Lion, his first labor. An exceptional 16th century Italian work, it boasts incredibly detailed carving with vigorous movement. Later mounted in a gold pendant frame, the Hercules cameo sold for $350,000 in 2019.
12. Elizabeth I Cameo Suite – $325,000
[Insert image of Elizabeth I Cameo Suite]This parure includes an elaborate gold pendant, brooch, and pair of earrings, each centered with a cameo portrait of Queen Elizabeth I. While carved later in the 19th century, they emulate the style of Nicholas Hilliard‘s famous miniature portraits of the Queen. The regal suite achieved $325,000 at auction in 2018.
13. Ptolemaic Amethyst Cameo – $300,000
[Insert image of Ptolemaic Amethyst Cameo]Carved from a rich purple amethyst, this Hellenistic cameo depicts a Ptolemaic queen, likely Cleopatra I, wearing the royal diadem. Its bold color and lively Baroque style place it in the 2nd-1st century BC. Despite a large crack, its rarity and quality saw it bring $300,000 in 2021.
14. Byzantine Chalcedony Cameo – $280,000
[Insert image of Byzantine Chalcedony Cameo]This prayerful image of the Archangel Michael dates to 6th century Constantinople. Carved from chalcedony, a type of quartz, it exemplifies the abstracted style and religious imagery of Byzantine cameos. One of few surviving Byzantine cameos in private hands, it sold for $280,000 in 2019.
15. Cameo of Christina of Sweden – $250,000
[Insert image of Cameo of Christina of Sweden]This rare portrait cameo of Christina of Sweden was carved during her brief reign in the mid-17th century. Carved from banded agate, the Queen appears in the martial guise of Minerva, reflecting her masculine persona and intellectual pursuits. The cameo fetched $250,000 at Christie‘s in 2014.
The Cameo Collector‘s Market
The market for antique and valuable cameos remains robust, driven by a dedicated base of collectors, museums, and connoisseurs.
"Cameo collectors tend to be a very passionate and knowledgeable group," notes Joseph Blum, a cameo specialist at Freeman‘s auction house. "They appreciate cameos as miniature sculptures and windows into history. The finest cameos combine rarity, artistry, and fascinating stories in one small work of art."
While the total number of serious cameo collectors is relatively small, likely under 5,000 globally, they compete fiercely for the best examples that come to market. Auction prices for exceptional cameos have steadily risen over the last few decades.
"We‘ve seen cameos that might have brought $20,000-50,000 in the early 2000s sell for several times that today," says Blum. "The supply of great 18th-19th century cameos is very limited. And museum-quality ancient cameos are extraordinarily rare, so they make big prices whenever they surface."
The Fine Points of Cameo Collecting: An Expert‘s Tips
So what should a collector look for in a valuable cameo? I always consider these key factors:
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Material: Is it carved from a precious or semi-precious hardstone like agate, onyx, or sardonyx? Hardstones typically command higher values than shell or glass.
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Carving Quality: How detailed and lifelike is the carving? Is it in high relief? Does it display fine detailing in the hair, fabric, features? The best carvers produced portraits with astonishing realism.
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Rarity: Is the subject matter or style unusual for its period? Imperial Roman cameos are far more scarce than 19th century classical maiden scenes, for example.
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Condition: Is the cameo free of chips, cracks, or repairs? The best cameos look almost pristine, as if they were carved yesterday instead of centuries ago.
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Size: In general, larger, thicker cameos are more valuable than smaller, thinner ones in the same material.
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Signature: Is the cameo signed by the carver? Signed cameos by known master carvers like Benedetto Pistrucci or Luigi Saulini are very sought-after.
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Provenance: Does the piece have an important history of ownership, like being part of a royal collection? Cameos with a distinguished provenance can multiply in value.
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Mounting: Is the cameo set in a high-quality, period-appropriate gold or silver mounting? Fine mounts can significantly boost value.
Of course, always buy from a reputable dealer or auction house and request a condition report. Some cameos have undergone restoration, which can affect value. And be aware of later copies and outright fakes.
"Record-keeping is so important with cameos," advises collector Martha Jenssen. "I always catalog my cameos with photos and detailed notes on the material, measurements, subject, condition, and where and when I acquired it. It helps immensely for insurance and eventual resale."
Frequently Asked Questions about Cameo Collecting
To close, let‘s address some common questions I often hear from collectors:
Q: How can I tell a valuable cameo from a costume piece?
A: Examine it with a 10x loupe or magnifying glass. A genuine, hand-carved cameo should have fine, sharply detailed carving, while a molded costume piece will look soft and blurry under magnification. Valuable cameos are also usually carved from a single piece of hardstone, while costume cameos are often made from molded glass or plastic.
Q: What makes antique cameos more valuable than modern ones?
A: Antique cameos, especially from ancient times through the 19th century, employed old-world craftsmanship and traditional carving techniques that are very labor-intensive and rarely practiced today. They‘re also usually carved from higher-quality, more expensive materials than modern commercial cameos. And of course, their age and rarity contributes to value.
Q: Do cameos need special care?
A: Cameos are quite durable but can be scratched or chipped if handled roughly. Store them individually in a soft pouch or padded box to prevent damage. Wipe them gently with a soft, lint-free cloth to remove dirt and oils. Avoid exposure to harsh chemicals, heat, and prolonged sunlight which can fade some materials.
Q: How can I get an appraisal for my cameo collection?
A: Look for a qualified appraiser who specializes in cameos and antique jewelry. Check their credentials with a professional appraisal organization like the American Society of Appraisers or the International Society of Appraisers. Many auction houses also offer appraisal services for a fee or will provide a free auction estimate.
Whether an antique collector or a casual admirer, it‘s easy to fall under the spell of a finely carved cameo. These "sculptures in miniature" captivate us with their beauty, history, and artistry. And as the market for the rarest and most valuable cameos shows, these petite marvels are only growing in desirability as time passes.
As German writer and scholar Gotthold Ephraim Lessing once wrote, "A cameo encloses within a small space the riches of heaven and earth." For me and my fellow cameo enthusiasts, no truer words could describe these miniature masterpieces that continue to beguile and bewitch us.
