Perched on a rocky hillside above the sparkling Ionian Sea, the ancient Taormina Amphitheatre (Teatro Antico di Taormina) is one of Sicily‘s most breathtaking historical landmarks. Also known as the Teatro Greco or Greek Theatre, this site has a fascinating history stretching back over 2,300 years. It remains not just an archaeological wonder, but a living piece of cultural heritage that still hosts performances to this day.
Greek Origins and Design
The Taormina theatre was originally built by the Greeks in the 3rd century BC, when Sicily was a thriving center of Magna Graecia (Greater Greece). According to the ancient historian Diodorus Siculus, it was constructed during the reign of Hiero II, the Greek tyrant of Syracuse, between 270-216 BC.
The Greeks chose a stunning location for their theatre — a natural rock hollow on the slopes of Monte Tauro with a commanding view over the Bay of Naxos and the Calabrian coast. But building here was no easy feat. Workers had to excavate and remove around 100,000 cubic meters of rock to shape the theatre‘s distinctive horseshoe-shaped auditorium (cavea).
Like most Greek theatres, Taormina‘s consists of three main parts:
- The cavea: semicircular seating area divided into three tiers by walkways, with a capacity of 5,400 spectators
- The orchestra: circular performance space at the bottom for the chorus
- The skene: a raised stage building behind the orchestra used by actors
What‘s remarkable is how the Greeks used the natural contours of the landscape in their design. The cavea‘s stone seats were built directly into the hillside, while the theatre‘s open-air configuration used the panoramic vistas as a natural backdrop.
The Greek architects also paid careful attention to acoustics. The steep angle of the cavea and the hard limestone surface created what‘s known as "acoustical rings," allowing even a whisper on stage to be heard clearly in the top row. Clay jars placed underneath the stage are believed to have amplified voices.
Roman Reconstructions
In the 3rd century BC, the Romans seized control of Sicily from the Carthaginians, ushering in centuries of Roman rule. They left their own mark on the Taormina theatre, enlarging and adapting it to suit their particular tastes.
Under Roman control, the theatre was expanded to its current dimensions, reaching a diameter of around 109 meters (358 ft). They added a grand columned portico around the upper perimeter and redecorated the skene with sculptures and ornate marble facings.
But the biggest Roman modification was to the stage. They extended the original Greek stage to create a larger performance space of 40 x 6 meters. This allowed them to host the combative spectacles that Roman audiences loved, like gladiator fights and wild animal hunts. The orchestra was also paved over to become an arena.
The theatre likely fell into disuse in the early Christian era when an anti-pagan edict in 391 AD prohibited many public spectacles. In the centuries that followed, the theatre was pillaged for building materials — its fine marbles and columns carted off to adorn churches and palaces. Then in 902 AD, Taormina was devastated by the invading Arabs. The theatre sank into neglect.
Modern Excavations and Restorations
Interest in the Taormina theatre revived during the Renaissance, when it began attracting admirers like the 15th-century painters Antonello da Messina and Girolamo Alibrandi. But it wasn‘t until the 19th century that serious archaeological work began.
Excavations in 1838-1883 uncovered much of the theatre‘s original structure and layout. Further digs in the early 1900s revealed parts of the Roman stage and drainage system. Major restoration projects in the 1920s and 50s repaired damaged sections and made the theatre suitable for modern use.
Today, ongoing conservation work aims to balance preserving the theatre‘s ancient fabric with maintaining its role as a functional venue. About 60% of what we see now is believed to date from the Roman era, with the rest being modern reconstructions.
An Iconic Landmark and Cultural Venue
For over two millennia, the Taormina theatre has been at the heart of the city‘s cultural life. In ancient times, it hosted the usual lineup of Greek dramas, music competitions, political assemblies, and Roman blood sports.
But even after centuries of neglect, the theatre never lost its power to inspire. It became a must-see stop on the Grand Tour, attracting literary luminaries like Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Guy de Maupassant, Alexander Dumas, and D.H. Lawrence. They waxed lyrical about its sublime natural setting and aura of antiquity.
As the historian Douglas Sladen wrote in 1901: "There is no other place where you may so completely surrender yourself to the illusion that you are living in the past of two thousand years ago."
That sense of stepping back in time still captivates visitors today. But the Taormina theatre is much more than a romantic ruin. In the summer months, its ancient stone seats fill up once again for operas, plays, ballets, and concerts. It has hosted an illustrious roster of artists, from Elton John and Sting to opera stars like Maria Callas and Andrea Bocelli.
The theatre‘s annual Taormina Arte festival, first held in 1983, has become one of Sicily‘s premier cultural events. For a few magical weeks, the ancient stage comes alive with world-class performances in one of the Mediterranean‘s most enchanting settings.
With its superb acoustics, spellbinding views, and palpable sense of history, experiencing a live performance at the Taormina theatre is a bucket-list experience. Sitting under the stars as the floodlit stone columns glimmer against the inky sky, it‘s easy to imagine the ancient Greeks and Romans who once gathered here for a few hours of escapism.
Practical Info for Visiting
The Taormina theatre is open daily from 9am-7pm in summer, with slightly reduced hours in winter. Admission is €10 for adults, with discounts for children, students, and seniors. Guided tours in English and Italian are available for an additional fee.
If you‘re catching a performance, be sure to bring warm layers as it can get chilly after dark. Comfortable shoes are a must for navigating the uneven stone steps.
While in Taormina, it‘s also worth checking out the nearby Roman Odeon, a smaller theatre from the 2nd century AD, and the Palazzo Corvaja, a 10th-century palace with a lovely courtyard and Arab-Norman architecture.
Getting to Taormina is easy with regular buses from Catania and Messina. If driving, the A18 highway runs right past the town. Parking can be tricky in the town center, so it‘s best to use one of the large parking garages on the outskirts and then take a short walk or cable car ride in.
A Testament to Sicily‘s Classical Heritage
The Taormina theatre is not just one of Italy‘s most spectacular ancient sites, but a potent symbol of Sicily‘s rich classical past. Its remarkable state of preservation and enduring role as a cultural hub make it unique among the Greek theatres of the ancient world.
As the scholar Giovanna Bacci wrote, "The Taormina theatre is more than an archaeological site; it is a living monument, a testament to the enduring power of art and human creativity."
Gazing out from the top of the cavea across the vast stage and glistening sea beyond, one can‘t help but feel a connection to the ancient Greeks and Romans who once sat here, momentarily forgetting their cares and reveling in the magic of theater. It‘s a poignant reminder of the timeless human need for stories, spectacle, and shared cultural experiences.
In a world where so much ancient heritage has been lost, the Taormina theatre endures — a monumental celebration of Sicily‘s multilayered history and indomitable spirit. To visit here is to step into a storied past and feel the pulse of a place where antiquity still lives and breathes.
