Nestled on the northeast corner of bustling Trafalgar Square lies an architectural gem that has stood witness to centuries of London‘s history – the iconic St Martin-in-the-Fields church. This historic Anglican parish church has been a beacon of faith, culture, and community in the heart of the city since the Middle Ages. Despite its central location amid the hubbub of modern London, St Martin‘s maintains an aura of timeless elegance and serenity that beckons visitors to step inside and explore its rich history and stunning architecture.
From Medieval Origins to Neoclassical Masterpiece
The curiously rural-sounding name of St Martin-in-the-Fields offers a clue to the church‘s ancient origins. When the first church was built on this site in the early 13th century, the area that is now Trafalgar Square was nothing but open fields on the outskirts of the city of London. The church was dedicated to Saint Martin of Tours, a 4th century Roman soldier who famously cut his cloak in half to share with a beggar.
Over the centuries, the church was rebuilt and expanded several times as London grew around it. In 1542, during the reign of Henry VIII, the medieval church was rebuilt and its parish extended. According to historian John Stow, this was done "so that no further burial should be in the church, for avoiding of infectious air" during outbreaks of plague (Stow, 1603).
The church was further enlarged in 1607 by Prince Henry, the eldest son of King James I. However, by the early 18th century, the old building had fallen into disrepair. In 1720, it was decided to demolish the dilapidated church and construct a new building in its place, funded by a grant from King George I and donations from wealthy parishioners.
The task of designing the new church fell to James Gibbs, a talented Scottish architect who had trained in Rome. Gibbs‘ design for St Martin-in-the-Fields was a striking neoclassical masterpiece, featuring a grand portico entrance with Corinthian columns, topped by a graceful pediment. The church‘s most notable feature was its elegant spire, which Gibbs chose to place directly over the roof, rather than at the west end as was traditional.
This unconventional design choice initially attracted some criticism. One satirical poem from 1726 mocked the church‘s appearance, declaring that "Gibbs‘ artless fabric shocks the sight" (quoted in Friedman, 1984, p. 45). However, the church also won many admirers for its harmonious proportions, soaring ceilings, and light-filled interior.
Architectural historian John Summerson hailed St Martin‘s as "one of the most perfect buildings ever erected in England" and "a milestone in the history of European architecture" (Summerson, 1945, p. 156). With its elegant blend of English Palladianism and Italian Baroque influences, St Martin-in-the-Fields became a model that would be widely emulated in church architecture around the world, from London to India to the United States.
A Spiritual and Cultural Landmark
Beyond its architectural significance, St Martin-in-the-Fields has played an important role in London‘s spiritual and cultural life for centuries. The church has witnessed key moments in British history, from the tumultuous years of the English Civil War to the Blitz during World War II.
Notable figures associated with St Martin‘s include the diarist Samuel Pepys, who was baptized in the church in 1633, and the composer George Frideric Handel, who played organ concertos there in the 1740s. The church‘s crypt also serves as the final resting place for several famous Londoners, including the artist William Hogarth and the sculptor Louis-François Roubiliac.
As a working church, St Martin‘s holds regular Anglican services, including choral Evensong and sung Eucharist. The church maintains a strong choral tradition, with a robed choir and professional choral scholars. Attending a service here is a wonderful way to experience the church as a living place of worship and to appreciate the acoustics of Gibbs‘ masterful design.
In addition to its religious role, St Martin-in-the-Fields is renowned as one of London‘s premiere classical music venues. The church has hosted regular concerts since at least 1699, when weekly performances of Handel‘s oratorios were held there.
Today, St Martin‘s presents an extensive program of music, with over 350 concerts per year. The church is particularly known for its candlelit evening concerts, which offer an intimate and atmospheric experience. The Academy of St Martin in the Fields, one of Britain‘s leading chamber orchestras, was founded at the church in 1958 by conductor Neville Marriner and has gone on to achieve international acclaim.
Facts and Figures
- Construction of the current church began in 1722 and was completed in 1726, at a cost of £33,661 (over £5 million in today‘s money)
- The church is 230 feet long and 80 feet wide, with a seating capacity of around 800
- The spire rises to a height of 192 feet and is topped by a ball and cross, added in 1756
- Notable works of art inside the church include a magnificent east window by Gibbs and an altarpiece painting by William Kent
- During World War II, the church crypt served as an air-raid shelter and a temporary homeless shelter
- In 2006-8, the church underwent a £36 million renewal project, including the creation of a new underground entrance, shop, and education center
Visiting St Martin-in-the-Fields
With its prime location right on Trafalgar Square, St Martin-in-the-Fields couldn‘t be easier to find. The nearest Underground station is Charing Cross, just a 2-minute walk away. The church is open to visitors daily from 8:30am to 6pm (1pm on Sundays), and admission is free, though donations are welcomed.
Guided tours of the church are available on Fridays and Saturdays at 11:15am, offering a fascinating glimpse into the building‘s history and architecture. The church also houses a gift shop selling books, music, and mementos.
After exploring the church, be sure to visit the atmospheric crypt, which has been converted into a café and gallery space. With its brick-vaulted ceilings and worn stone floors, the crypt offers a cozy spot to enjoy a coffee or light meal. The crypt also houses a brass rubbing center where visitors can create their own medieval-style artwork.
Whether you come for a moment of quiet contemplation, to admire the stunning architecture, or to attend a world-class concert, a visit to St Martin-in-the-Fields is sure to be a highlight of any trip to London. This timeless landmark offers a fascinating window into the city‘s rich history and cultural heritage.
Sources
- Friedman, T. (1984). James Gibbs. Yale University Press.
- Hatton, R. (1708). A New View of London. London: John Morphew.
- Stow, J. (1603). A Survey of London. London: John Windet.
- Summerson, J. (1945). Georgian London. London: Pleiades Books.
- St Martin-in-the-Fields. (2021). Our history. https://www.stmartin-in-the-fields.org/about-us/our-history/
- Weinreb, B., Hibbert, C., Keay, J., & Keay, J. (2008). The London Encyclopaedia. London: Macmillan.
