Nestled in the picturesque countryside of southwest France, Château de Montaigne stands as a monument to one of the most innovative minds of the Renaissance—Michel de Montaigne. Born within these walls in 1533, Montaigne would go on to pioneer a new literary genre, the essay, and shape the course of Western thought. For historians and travelers alike, a visit to this carefully preserved 14th-century manor offers an intimate look into the life and legacy of an intellectual giant.
A Stronghold Transformed
Though the oldest parts of Montaigne Castle date back to the 1300s, it was significantly expanded over the 15th and 16th centuries as the Eyquem family came into ownership. Montaigne‘s great-grandfather, Ramon Eyquem, first acquired the estate in 1477, thus establishing the family‘s noble line as the Lords of Montaigne.
As was typical of many French chateaus, Montaigne Castle originally served a largely defensive purpose, situated as it was near the strategically important Dordogne River valley. However, by the time of Michel de Montaigne‘s birth, the initially spartan stronghold had been converted into a comfortable residence, reflecting the family‘s rise in status and wealth.
Sadly, much of the original Renaissance-era structure was lost to a devastating fire in 1885. But thanks to the efforts of then-owner Pierre Magne, minister to Emperor Napoleon III, it was painstakingly rebuilt in a Neo-Renaissance style true to Montaigne‘s time. Today, visitors can still get a sense of the chateau as Montaigne would have known it, especially in the faithfully preserved library tower where he spent countless hours reading, writing and ruminating.
The Life of Michel de Montaigne
Born into a wealthy family on February 28, 1533, Michel de Montaigne enjoyed an unusually privileged and progressive upbringing for the time. His father, Pierre Eyquem, had the young Michel educated by German and Latin scholars, immersing him in classical languages from an early age. Montaigne claims that he spoke Latin as his first language and only later learned French.
After studying law and serving as a magistrate in Bordeaux, Montaigne retired to the family chateau at age 38, devoting himself to reading, writing, and managing the estate. It was during this fruitful period of semi-seclusion that he began work on his Essais (literally "Attempts"), a sprawling collection of personal reflections and philosophical explorations.
Though he drew inspiration from the works of ancient authors like Plutarch and Seneca, Montaigne‘s approach was radically original. Rather than presenting a formal treatise or argument, the Essays offer an intimate self-portrait, full of amusing anecdotes, provocative insights, and disarming candor about the author‘s own quirks and doubts. As he famously declared: "I am myself the matter of my book."
Over the course of three volumes published between 1580-1588, Montaigne mused on an encyclopedic range of topics from thumbs and drunkenness to death and the New World. Though some criticized his meandering style, the Essays struck a chord with readers hungry for a more personal, relatable mode of philosophy. Across 107 chapters, Montaigne modeled a spirit of open-ended inquiry, always questioning his own assumptions and embracing uncertainty with a smile.
Consider his playful skepticism in this passage from the essay "On Schoolmasters‘ Learning":
"I gladly come back to the theme of the absurdity of our education: its end has not been to make us good and wise, but learned. And it has succeeded. It has not taught us to seek virtue and to embrace wisdom: it has impressed upon us their derivation and their etymology!"
Montaigne‘s World and Works
Beyond birthing a new literary form, Montaigne was also a man of his time, grappling with the political and religious upheaval of 16th-century France. A Catholic with many Protestant friends, he sought to strike a moderate course through the violent sectarianism of the Wars of Religion. His celebrated friendship with Henry of Navarre, the future King Henry IV, positioned him as an influential diplomat and peacemaker.
We see hints of this broader historical context in essays like "On War Horses" and "On Prayers", where Montaigne observes the folly and fanaticism of his age with characteristic irony. His final essay, the lengthy "Of Experience", reads in part as a critique of the vanities and delusions that lead men to kill each other over trifles.
But it would be a mistake to pigeonhole Montaigne as a mere commentator on current events. Ever the humanist, he sought to capture more timeless truths about the human condition, as in the penetrating "To Philosophize is to Learn How to Die":
"Let us deprive death of its strangeness, let us frequent it, let us get used to it; let us have nothing more often in mind than death… We do not know where death awaits us: so let us wait for it everywhere."
In his later years, Montaigne embarked on a grand tour of Europe, which he recounted in his unfinished Travel Journal. Though less polished than the Essays, it offers fascinating firsthand observations on everything from Swiss saunas to Roman ruins. Ever ill with kidney stones, Montaigne undertook the voyage partly as a health pilgrimage to various spas and baths.
He died at age 59 in 1592, leaving behind a powerful intellectual legacy. In his own lifetime, the Essays were a bestseller, going through at least 11 editions and translations into English, Italian and other languages. Over the centuries, Montaigne‘s influence only grew, shaping everyone from Shakespeare and Rousseau to Nietzsche and Woolf. American philosopher Eric Hoffer summed up his importance thus:
"Montaigne was the first humanist who broke with the tradition of the humanists of merely mining the classics for the moral lessons. He mined them for the knowledge of himself and of man."
By the Numbers: Montaigne‘s Reach
- 1570 – Year Montaigne retired to the chateau to begin writing the Essays
- 1,300+ – Estimated number of quotations from classical authors in the Essays
- 74 – Number of editions of the Essays published between 1580-1700
- 6,000+ – Number of words in Montaigne‘s longest essay, the autobiographical "Of Experience"
- 21 – Number of language translations of the Essays currently in print
Visiting Montaigne Castle Today
Recognized as a French National Heritage Site, Château de Montaigne welcomes visitors year-round to explore this beautifully restored time capsule of the Renaissance.
The castle is located about 45 miles east of Bordeaux near the village of Saint-Michel-de-Montaigne. By car, take highway A89 towards Bergerac, then follow the D936 to the chateau. If traveling by train, the nearest station is Lamothe-Montravel on the Bordeaux-Sarlat line, where taxi service is available.
Admission to the chateau and grounds is €7.50 for adults, €5.50 for students and teens, and free for children under 7. Guided tours in English and French are offered daily, or you can pick up an audio guide to explore at your own pace. Be sure to spend time in Montaigne‘s library, noted for its unique circular design and collection of rare books.
After your visit, drop by the neighboring Café de Montaigne for lunch or a glass of the local Bergerac wine. The town also boasts a Montaigne Museum with interactive exhibits on the philosopher‘s life and times.
Serious Montaigne aficionados should plan their visit for late May, when the chateau hosts an annual Montaigne Festival weekend featuring lectures, performances and historical reenactments. The lively event draws scholars and fans from across Europe to celebrate the enduring spirit of inquiry embodied by the world‘s first essayist.
Sources and Further Reading
Bakewell, Sarah. How to Live: Or A Life of Montaigne in One Question and Twenty Attempts at an Answer. Random House, 2010.
Frame, Donald M. Montaigne: A Biography. Harcourt Brace Jovanovich, 1984.
Hoffman, George. Montaigne‘s Career. Oxford University Press, 1999.
Langer, Ullrich. The Cambridge Companion to Montaigne. Cambridge University Press, 2005.
Official website of Château de Montaigne: http://www.chateau-montaigne.com/en
