Introduction
Nestled in the heart of Rome stands the Archbasilica of San Giovanni in Laterano, the oldest and highest-ranking of the four papal major basilicas. Not only does it serve as the cathedral church of Rome and the official ecclesiastical seat of the Pope, it also bears the unique title of "mother and head of all churches of Rome and in the world." For any student of church history, religious art, or architecture, a pilgrimage to San Giovanni in Laterano is an absolute must.
History
Origins and Patronage of Constantine
The story of San Giovanni in Laterano began in the early 4th century AD when the Roman Emperor Constantine I, fresh off his victory over Maxentius at the Battle of the Milvian Bridge, donated the Lateran Palace to the Church. The palace, which had previously belonged to the wealthy Laterani family before being seized by the emperor, stood on the site of an old Roman fort of the imperial cavalry bodyguards.
It was here, on the ruins of this fort and palace, that Constantine founded the very first Roman basilica around 324 AD. Originally dedicated to Christ the Savior, it was later rededicated to John the Baptist and John the Evangelist, giving us its current name. Constantine spared no expense in adorning his new church, lavishing it with precious liturgical vessels, ornaments, and land from his own property.
As professor of art history John F. Romano notes, "The establishment of San Giovanni in Laterano marked a pivotal moment in the history of Western architecture. It set the standard for the basilica form and served as a model for countless churches that followed."
Reconstructions and Renovations
Over the centuries, San Giovanni in Laterano suffered damage from fires, earthquakes, and the ravages of time. The basilica was rebuilt and expanded several times, most notably in the late 16th century under Pope Sixtus V. It was during this period that the church acquired much of its current appearance, including its grand nave and transepts.
In the 18th century, the basilica received its elegant Baroque façade, designed by the renowned architect Alessandro Galilei. This imposing front is adorned with 15 seven-meter statues: Christ the Savior in the center, flanked by John the Baptist and John the Evangelist, and the 12 Doctors of the Church.
Lateran Councils and Treaty
San Giovanni in Laterano has also played host to several significant events in church history. Five ecumenical councils were held here between 1123 and 1517, addressing issues like the Crusades, heresy, and church reform.
More recently, the basilica lent its name to the Lateran Treaty of 1929, which settled the "Roman Question" and established Vatican City as a sovereign state. This treaty also granted San Giovanni in Laterano a special extraterritorial status – although it stands outside the borders of Vatican City, it remains under the authority of the Holy See.
Architecture and Art
Exterior
Approaching San Giovanni in Laterano, visitors are greeted by the sight of the Lateran Obelisk, the largest standing Egyptian obelisk in the world. Originally commissioned by Pharaoh Thutmose III and brought to Rome in the 4th century by Constantine‘s son Constantius II, it stands 45.7 meters tall and weighs an estimated 330 tons.
The basilica‘s grand façade, rising behind the obelisk, is a masterpiece of 18th-century architecture. Its five portals are flanked by giant Corinthian columns supporting an imposing cornice and balustrade. The central portal features massive bronze doors that once belonged to the ancient Curia in the Roman Forum.
Interior
Stepping inside San Giovanni in Laterano is like taking a journey through centuries of religious art and architecture. The vast nave is lined with colossal statues of the Twelve Apostles, each housed in its own niche. These masterful sculptures were created by some of the top artists working in 18th-century Rome, including Camillo Rusconi and Pierre-Etienne Monnot.
Underfoot lies the beautiful 14th-century Cosmatesque pavement, a hallmark of medieval Roman artistry. This intricate mosaic floor, composed of colorful geometric designs in marble and porphyry, leads the eye down the nave to the High Altar and its magnificent Gothic ciborium.
The basilica‘s gilded wooden ceiling, completed in the 16th century, shines a light on still more artistic treasures. It features coffers decorated with the heraldic emblems of the Tomacelli and Della Rovere families, which produced several popes during the Renaissance.
Other notable features of the interior include the series of papal busts above the nave columns, the precious Altar of the Holy Sacrament in the Blessed Sacrament Chapel, and the adjacent Lateran Baptistery, the oldest baptistery in Christendom.
Holy Relics
As the cathedral of Rome, San Giovanni in Laterano is home to a number of venerated holy relics. Chief among these are the skulls of Saints Peter and Paul, kept in silver reliquaries above the main altar. The basilica also houses a relic of the Holy Table from the Last Supper and fragments of the True Cross.
Just across the street from the basilica, in a separate building, are the Scala Sancta or Holy Stairs. According to tradition, these 28 marble steps were part of Pontius Pilate‘s palace in Jerusalem and were climbed by Jesus during his Passion. They were brought to Rome by St. Helena in the 4th century and have been a site of pilgrimage ever since.
Significance
As art historian Andrew Graham-Dixon puts it, "San Giovanni in Laterano is not just a church, but a living testament to the history of Rome and the Catholic faith. Its walls have witnessed the coronations of popes, the deliberations of councils, and the prayers of countless pilgrims."
Indeed, for centuries, the Pope‘s cathedra (official chair) was housed here, and it remains his seat as the Bishop of Rome even today. The basilica‘s role as the cathedral of Rome also means that it ranks above all other churches in the Catholic hierarchy, even above St. Peter‘s Basilica in the Vatican.
This pre-eminence is underscored by the Latin inscription on the façade, which proclaims San Giovanni in Laterano as "the mother and head of all churches of the city and the world." It is a reminder of the basilica‘s unique status and its enduring significance in the life of the Church.
Recent Developments
In recent years, San Giovanni in Laterano has undergone extensive restorations to preserve its artistic heritage. A major project in the early 2000s saw the cleaning and repair of the façade, while a more recent initiative has focused on restoring the Cosmatesque pavement and the Blessed Sacrament Chapel.
These restorations have not only beautified the basilica but also led to some remarkable discoveries. In 2018, for example, workers uncovered a series of frescoes from the 13th century hidden behind a layer of plaster in the nave. These well-preserved images, depicting scenes from the Old and New Testaments, offer a rare glimpse into the church‘s medieval decorative scheme.
Visiting San Giovanni in Laterano
For those planning a visit to San Giovanni in Laterano, the basilica is open daily from 7:00 to 18:30, with shorter hours on Sundays and holy days. Admission is free, though there is a small charge to enter the cloister and the Lateran Baptistery.
The church is easily accessible by public transportation. Visitors can take the Metro Line A to the San Giovanni station, or one of several bus lines (16, 81, 85, 87, 186, 650, 810) to the nearby stops.
When visiting, it‘s important to remember that San Giovanni in Laterano is an active place of worship. Respectful attire is required, meaning no shorts, sleeveless shirts, or skirts above the knee.
Whether you come as a pilgrim, a history buff, or an art lover, a visit to San Giovanni in Laterano is an unforgettable experience. This venerable basilica, with its rich history, stunning artistry, and deep spiritual significance, truly embodies the essence of Rome as the Eternal City and the center of the Catholic world.
Sources and Further Reading
- Blaauw, Sible de. "Imperial Connotations in Roman Church Interiors: The Significance and Effect of the Lateran Fastigium." Acta ad archaeologiam et artium historiam pertinentia 15 (2001): 137-146.
- Freiberg, Jack. The Lateran in 1600: Christian Concord in Counter-Reformation Rome. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1995.
- Krautheimer, Richard. Rome: Profile of a City, 312-1308. Princeton: Princeton University Press, 2000.
- Romano, John F. "The Archbasilica of St. John Lateran: The Mother and Head of All Churches." In The Great Churches of Rome, edited by Keith Miller, 23-45. New York: Abbeville Press, 2007.
- Webb, Matilda. The Churches and Catacombs of Early Christian Rome: A Comprehensive Guide. Brighton: Sussex Academic Press, 2001.
