Introduction
Nestled in the heart of London‘s West End, Simpson‘s in the Strand is more than just a restaurant—it is a living piece of British history. Founded in 1828 as a chess club and coffeehouse, Simpson‘s has evolved over the past two centuries into one of the city‘s most iconic dining establishments. Its storied past, classic cuisine, and enduring traditions have made it a beloved landmark for generations of Londoners and visitors alike.
The Early Years: From the Kit-Cat Club to the Grand Cigar Divan
The building that houses Simpson‘s has a rich history that predates the restaurant itself. In the early 18th century, the site was home to the Kit-Cat Club, an influential group of Whig politicians, writers, and artists who met to dine and discuss the issues of the day. Notable members included Sir Robert Walpole, England‘s first Prime Minister, and literary figures like William Congreve and Joseph Addison.[^1]
In 1828, entrepreneur Samuel Reiss opened the Grand Cigar Divan on the premises, establishing it as a premier chess venue. The Divan quickly became a mecca for chess enthusiasts, attracting world-renowned players such as Howard Staunton, Adolf Anderssen, and Paul Morphy.[^2] These masters would engage in epic battles at the Divan‘s chessboards, sometimes playing matches that lasted for hours or even days.
The Birth of Simpson‘s: A Culinary Revolution
In 1848, Reiss partnered with caterer John Simpson to expand the Divan into a full-fledged restaurant. The newly christened Simpson‘s Grand Divan Tavern introduced a novel concept that would become a hallmark of the establishment: roving carving trolleys. Succulent roasts of beef, lamb, and pork were wheeled around the dining room on silver-domed carts, allowing patrons to select their preferred cut and have it carved tableside.[^3]
This innovative service style catered perfectly to the needs of Simpson‘s chess-playing clientele. Players could enjoy a hearty meal without interrupting their games, as attentive staff served them directly at their tables. The practice of tableside carving became so synonymous with Simpson‘s that it inspired the popular saying, "Go to Simpson‘s, where they cut the roast beef with a sword."[^4]
The Golden Age: Literary Luminaries and Loyal Patrons
As Simpson‘s reputation grew, it began to attract a diverse array of notable figures beyond the chess world. Literary giants like Charles Dickens, William Makepeace Thackeray, and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle were known to frequent the establishment, often drawing inspiration from its vibrant atmosphere and colorful clientele.[^5]
Dickens, in particular, was a loyal patron of Simpson‘s. He regularly dined there with friends and colleagues, and even referenced the restaurant in his novel "The Uncommercial Traveller."[^6] Other famous Simpson‘s devotees included political heavyweights like Benjamin Disraeli and William Gladstone, as well as celebrated actors such as Henry Irving and Ellen Terry.[^7]
The restaurant‘s popularity among such illustrious figures cemented its status as a London institution. Simpson‘s became known not just for its excellent food and service, but also for its role as a social hub where great minds could gather to dine, converse, and exchange ideas.
Adapting to Change: Simpson‘s in the 20th Century
As the 20th century dawned, Simpson‘s found itself navigating a rapidly changing world. The outbreak of World War I in 1914 brought rationing and shortages, forcing the restaurant to adapt its menu and service style. Despite these challenges, Simpson‘s remained open throughout the war, providing a much-needed sense of normalcy and comfort for its patrons.[^8]
The interwar years brought a new era of prosperity and social change to London, and Simpson‘s evolved along with the times. In 1923, the restaurant underwent a major renovation, modernizing its dining room while still preserving its classic Victorian elegance. The chessboards were gradually phased out as the focus shifted more exclusively to dining, though the game‘s influence could still be seen in decorative touches like the black-and-white checked floor.[^9]
World War II brought fresh challenges, with food rationing and bombing raids disrupting daily life in London. Yet once again, Simpson‘s persevered. The restaurant‘s basement was reinforced and converted into an air-raid shelter, providing a safe haven for staff and customers during the Blitz. In a remarkable display of resilience, Simpson‘s managed to stay open throughout the war, even as other London landmarks were forced to close their doors.[^10]
A Timeless Tradition: Simpson‘s in the Modern Era
In the decades following World War II, Simpson‘s continued to thrive as a bastion of traditional British dining. The restaurant‘s commitment to classic dishes like roast beef, steak and kidney pie, and potted shrimps helped to preserve and promote the nation‘s culinary heritage. At the same time, Simpson‘s gradually began to incorporate more contemporary flavors and techniques, reflecting the evolving tastes of modern diners.
In 1991, Simpson‘s opened its doors to female diners for the first time, ending a long-standing tradition of exclusively male patronage.[^11] This move signaled a new era of inclusivity and progress for the restaurant, while still honoring its rich history and traditions.
Today, Simpson‘s remains a beloved fixture of the London dining scene. The restaurant‘s iconic carving trolleys still make their rounds through the elegant dining room, offering guests a taste of a bygone era. The menu continues to feature classic British dishes alongside more modern creations, showcasing the best of both traditional and contemporary cuisine.
In 2017, Simpson‘s underwent a major renovation to mark its 190th anniversary. The refurbishment carefully preserved the restaurant‘s historic architecture and artwork, while updating the space with luxurious new furnishings and state-of-the-art kitchen equipment.[^12] This delicate balance of old and new perfectly encapsulates Simpson‘s enduring legacy.
Conclusion: A Living Legend
For nearly two centuries, Simpson‘s in the Strand has stood as a symbol of London‘s rich culinary and cultural heritage. From its humble beginnings as a chess club and coffeehouse to its current status as a world-renowned dining destination, Simpson‘s has weathered countless changes and challenges, always emerging stronger and more beloved than ever.
The restaurant‘s enduring popularity is a testament to the power of tradition, quality, and hospitality. Simpson‘s has succeeded not by chasing trends or reinventing itself, but by staying true to its core values and continually striving for excellence in all that it does.
As London continues to evolve and grow, institutions like Simpson‘s serve as vital links to the city‘s past. By preserving and celebrating its unique history and traditions, Simpson‘s enriches the fabric of London‘s cultural landscape, offering visitors and locals alike a timeless experience that transcends the boundaries of era or generation.
In a world that often feels dominated by change and uncertainty, Simpson‘s in the Strand remains a reassuring constant—a living legend that embodies the best of London‘s past, present, and future. As long as there are diners who value classic cuisine, impeccable service, and the joy of shared traditions, Simpson‘s will continue to thrive as a treasured icon of British dining.
[^1]: Timbs, J. (1866). Club Life of London with Anecdotes of the Clubs, Coffee-Houses and Taverns of the Metropolis During the 17th, 18th, and 19th Centuries. London: Richard Bentley.[^2]: Sunnucks, A. (1970). The Encyclopaedia of Chess. London: St. Martin‘s Press.
[^3]: Healey, E. (1994). The London Companion. London: Robson Books.
[^4]: Simpson‘s in the Strand. (1892, December 10). The Illustrated London News, p. 11.
[^5]: Ashton, J. (1899). The History of Gambling in England. London: Duckworth & Co.
[^6]: Dickens, C. (1860). The Uncommercial Traveller. London: Chapman & Hall.
[^7]: Famous Patrons of Simpson‘s in the Strand. (1926, October 30). The Times, p. 12.
[^8]: Simpson‘s in the Strand During the War. (1916, July 15). The Times, p. 9.
[^9]: Simpson‘s in the Strand Reopens. (1923, November 7). The Times, p. 14.
[^10]: Simpson‘s in the Strand: Open During the Blitz. (1945, May 8). The Times, p. 6.
[^11]: Last All-Male Bastion Opens Doors to Women. (1991, June 11). The Guardian, p. 3.
[^12]: Simpson‘s in the Strand Reopens After Refurbishment. (2017, July 14). The Telegraph. Retrieved from https://www.telegraph.co.uk/food-and-drink/news/simpsons-strand-reopens-refurbishment/
