Rising majestically from the southwest corner of Moscow‘s Red Square, the colorful domes and spires of St. Basil‘s Cathedral are an unforgettable sight. Officially named the Cathedral of the Intercession of the Most Holy Theotokos on the Moat, this masterpiece of Russian architecture has a fascinating history stretching back over four and a half centuries.
Ivan the Terrible‘s Victory Monument
The story of St. Basil‘s Cathedral begins with Ivan IV, better known as Ivan the Terrible, the first Tsar of Russia. In 1552, Ivan led his armies to a decisive victory over the Khanate of Kazan, which had been the capital of the medieval Tatar-Mongol state. This triumph ended over 300 years of Tatar rule and was a major turning point in Russian history.
To commemorate this victory, Ivan ordered the construction of a grand cathedral on Red Square. According to the cathedral‘s official history, the Tsar personally laid the foundation stone on the feast day of the Intercession of the Virgin Mary, which falls on October 1 in the Orthodox calendar. This is why the cathedral‘s official name references this religious holiday.
The conquest of Kazan not only freed Russia from foreign domination but also opened up vast new territories for expansion to the east. As historian James Billington notes in his book "The Icon and the Axe," Ivan saw the victory as a sign of divine favor and a mandate to establish a "Third Rome" in Moscow, positioning Russia as the successor to the Byzantine Empire as the protector of Orthodox Christianity.
A Revolutionary Architectural Style
To design this important national monument, Ivan commissioned two Russian architects, Barma and Postnik Yakovlev. What they created was unlike any church that had been built before in Russia.
The central core of the cathedral is surrounded by eight smaller chapels, each with its own unique onion dome. The entire structure is adorned with intricate cornices, arches, and decorative details. The bright colors of the domes, ranging from red and green to blue and yellow, were added in the 17th century and create a striking visual effect reminiscent of the flames of a bonfire reaching up to the heavens.
This innovative architectural style broke away from the Byzantine traditions that had long dominated Russian church design. As art historian Valery Turchin explains, "The silhouette of St. Basil‘s Cathedral represents a complete rejection of the ascetic strictness of traditional Orthodox churches. Its exuberant colors and ornamental details embody a new spirit of national pride and creative freedom."
The cathedral‘s design had a profound impact on the course of Russian architecture. Its so-called "flamboyant" style, with its emphasis on elaborate ornamentation and multiple onion domes, would be widely emulated in churches across Russia in the following decades, becoming a defining feature of the Russian Orthodox aesthetic.
The Holy Fool of Moscow
While the cathedral‘s official name references the Virgin Mary, it is more commonly known as St. Basil‘s Cathedral, after the famous saint whose remains are interred within.
Basil the Blessed, also known as Basil Fool for Christ, was a 16th-century Russian Orthodox saint renowned for his prophetic powers and his unorthodox behavior. He walked the streets of Moscow naked, rebuking sinners and reproaching the wealthy for their greed and excess. He was known to steal from the rich to give to the poor, reportedly even being bold enough to confront Ivan the Terrible himself.
Despite his strange antics, or perhaps because of them, Basil was revered as a holy man by the people of Moscow. When he died in 1557, Ivan the Terrible himself acted as a pallbearer at his funeral and had him buried in the new cathedral with full honors. A chapel was built over Basil‘s grave, and his relics became an important pilgrimage site.
The tradition of the "holy fool" has deep roots in Russian Orthodox culture. These eccentric ascetics were believed to be vessels of divine wisdom, using shocking or unconventional behavior to challenge societal norms and speak truth to power. By flouting earthly conventions, they embodied a higher spiritual truth. Other famous holy fools in Russian history include St. Xenia of St. Petersburg and St. Nicholas of Pskov.
Surviving the Centuries
Over its long history, St. Basil‘s Cathedral witnessed many of the dramatic events that shaped Russia‘s destiny. During the Time of Troubles in the early 17th century, the cathedral was seized by Polish invaders who used it as a barracks. When Russian forces finally drove out the Poles in 1612, they discovered that the cathedral had been desecrated, with soldiers even stabling their horses in the chapels.
In 1812, Napoleon Bonaparte occupied Moscow and reportedly ordered his soldiers to strip St. Basil‘s Cathedral of its treasures to take back to Paris. Legend has it that the French Emperor was so impressed by the cathedral‘s beauty that he wanted to take it back home with him, but his engineers said that it would fall apart if they tried to move it.
After the Bolshevik Revolution in 1917, St. Basil‘s Cathedral faced a new threat. The Soviet government, in its zeal to stamp out religion, closed the cathedral and converted it into a museum. For a time, there were even calls to demolish the cathedral altogether, as some communist hardliners saw it as a relic of the despised tsarist past.
Luckily, cooler heads prevailed. As historian Natalia Dushkina relates, "In the 1930s, there were plans to raze St. Basil‘s and other churches on Red Square to make way for grand military parades. But Stalin eventually decided against it, saying ‘No, let it stay as a museum.‘" Instead, the cathedral was painstakingly restored and preserved as a national monument.
Exploring the Interior
While most visitors to St. Basil‘s Cathedral are content to admire its spectacular exterior, the inside of the cathedral is equally fascinating. The nine chapels that make up the cathedral are connected by a labyrinth of narrow corridors and steep stairways, creating a sense of mystery and discovery.
Each chapel is dedicated to a different saint or religious feast, and they are all lavishly decorated with colorful frescoes, intricate carvings, and glittering iconostases. The central altar, located under the tallest onion dome, is dedicated to the Intercession of the Virgin Mary.
One of the most important chapels is the one containing the relics of St. Basil himself. Visitors can see the saint‘s ornate silver casket, as well as a number of his personal possessions, including his iron chains and his "fool‘s cap" – a rough woolen hat that he wore as a symbol of his holy foolishness.
Other notable features of the interior include a 16th-century brass floor brought from Germany, a priceless collection of medieval icons, and a wooden altar screen from the time of Ivan the Terrible that miraculously survived the Polish occupation and the Bolshevik Revolution.
A Symbol of Russia
Today, St. Basil‘s Cathedral is one of Russia‘s most popular tourist destinations, attracting over two million visitors annually. According to the Moscow Department of Culture, it is the city‘s second most visited attraction after the Kremlin.
But St. Basil‘s is more than just a pretty façade. For Russians, the cathedral is a potent symbol of national identity and pride. Its image has been used on everything from postage stamps to vodka bottles. In a 2008 poll by the Russian television network Rossiya, St. Basil‘s was voted one of the "Seven Wonders of Russia," alongside such landmarks as Lake Baikal and the Valley of Geysers.
As art critic Grigory Revzin writes, "St. Basil‘s Cathedral is the visiting card not just of Moscow, but of Russia itself. It‘s the face that Russia presents to the world – bright, joyful, a little crazy. It‘s a building that represents the Russian soul."
Indeed, there is something about the cathedral‘s exuberant, almost whimsical design that seems to capture the essence of the Russian character – a blend of deep spirituality, creative flair, and a defiant individuality. Standing in the shadow of the Kremlin walls, St. Basil‘s Cathedral is a testament to Russia‘s resilience and a celebration of its unique cultural heritage.
Visiting St. Basil‘s Cathedral
St. Basil‘s Cathedral is open to visitors daily from 11:00 am to 5:00 pm, except on the first Wednesday of each month. Admission is 700 rubles (approximately $10 USD) for adults, with discounts available for students, children, and seniors. Guided tours in English are available for an additional fee.
Due to the popularity of the cathedral, it can get very crowded, especially during the summer months. To avoid the worst of the crowds, it‘s best to visit early in the morning or later in the afternoon. Keep in mind that the interior of the cathedral is quite small and cramped, with lots of stairs, so it may not be suitable for those with mobility issues.
Of course, even if you don‘t go inside, simply standing on Red Square and marveling at the cathedral‘s vivid colors and onion domes is an unforgettable experience. Whether you‘re an architecture buff, a history enthusiast, or simply a lover of beauty, St. Basil‘s Cathedral is a must-see on any visit to Moscow.
Statistics
- St. Basil‘s Cathedral attracts over 2 million visitors annually
- The cathedral was completed in 1561 after 6 years of construction
- The central tower reaches a height of 47.5 meters (156 feet)
- The cathedral covers an area of 1,680 square meters (18,000 square feet)
- There are 9 chapels inside the cathedral, each with its own unique dome
- The cathedral‘s official name contains 16 words
- St. Basil‘s was voted one of the "Seven Wonders of Russia" in a 2008 poll
Conclusion
St. Basil‘s Cathedral is more than just an architectural curiosity – it‘s a living embodiment of Russia‘s turbulent history and indomitable spirit. From its conception as a monument to military victory to its narrow escape from Soviet destruction, the cathedral has stood witness to the rise and fall of empires, the clash of ideologies, and the unfolding of a nation‘s destiny.
Today, as it has for over 450 years, St. Basil‘s Cathedral continues to inspire and astonish all who behold it. Its candy-colored domes and fanciful silhouette have become synonymous with Russia itself – a visual shorthand for a land of contradiction and creativity, of fervent faith and wild abandon.
To gaze upon St. Basil‘s Cathedral is to confront the essence of Russia – a country that defies easy categorization, that refuses to conform to anyone‘s expectations. Like the holy fools who roamed its streets, St. Basil‘s Cathedral stands as a joyful rebuke to the mundane, a riot of color and form that invites us to see the world anew. It is, quite simply, a wonder – and a reminder of the enduring power of human imagination and devotion.
