Nestled in the heart of Oxford, a city famed for its prestigious university and soaring spires, lies an ancient site with a far darker history. Oxford Castle, built nearly 1,000 years ago, has borne witness to a turbulent and often brutal past – serving as medieval stronghold, infamous prison and the site of untold suffering across the centuries.
Today, the castle has been reinvented as a captivating heritage attraction, offering visitors a unique journey through Oxford‘s ‘hidden history‘. But to truly appreciate the significance of the site, we must first delve into its long and complex story.
Norman Beginnings
Oxford Castle‘s history begins in 1071, when construction was ordered by none other than William the Conqueror, the first Norman king of England. The Normans, keen to cement their rule over the kingdom, embarked on a prolific castle-building campaign in the years following their conquest.
The castle at Oxford was strategically positioned on the western border of the Saxon burgh, using the natural protection of the surrounding rivers and streams. The first major construction was the large earthen mound or ‘motte‘, which still stands at around 60 feet high and 40 metres in diameter at its base. This was topped with wooden defences and would have dominated the local skyline.
In the following years, the castle was further fortified with stone walls, towers and a substantial gatehouse. The original wooden keep was replaced with a ten-sided stone keep, one of the first of its kind in England. By the early 12th century, St George‘s Chapel had been added within the castle walls – a collegiate church that would later play a significant role in the origins of Oxford University.
The Anarchy and Beyond
The castle‘s strategic importance was highlighted during the period of civil war and unrest in England known as The Anarchy (1135-1153). The Empress Matilda used Oxford as her base in her fight to secure the English crown from her rival King Stephen. In 1142, Stephen besieged the castle but Matilda managed to escape – as legend has it, by cloaking herself in white to blend in with the snow and slipping out across the frozen Castle Mill Stream.
With the end of the conflict, Oxford Castle continued to thrive as the centre of regional government and an important seat of power. St George‘s Chapel attracted prominent scholars and teachers, with one of its canons, Geoffrey of Monmouth, penning the hugely influential "History of the Kings of Britain" in 1136 – one of the earliest sources of the legend of King Arthur.
In the centuries that followed, the castle complex sprawled ever larger as monarchs made substantial investments. Henry III spent the sizeable sum of £300 on repairs and expansion in the 1220s. By the time Edward III undertook major works in 1335, the inner bailey alone measured 125 metres by 100 metres – an area larger than a football pitch.
Prison and Punishment
But it was in the aftermath of the English Civil War in the mid-17th century that Oxford Castle entered its darkest chapter. After Parliament‘s victory over King Charles I in 1646, the castle was heavily damaged and its military function became obsolete. Instead, it was converted for use as a prison, one that would earn a fearsome reputation in the following centuries.
The interior of Oxford Prison in the 19th century (Image: Wikimedia Commons)
The prison conditions in the 17th and 18th centuries were notoriously grim. Inmates, many of them debtors, were expected to pay for their own food and lodging, with the poorest subsisting in squalor. The influential prison reformer John Howard visited Oxford Prison in 1777 and was appalled by the conditions, describing "sickly and half-starved debtors unable to keep themselves clean of lice".
One of the most infamous prisoners of this era was Mary Blandy, accused of murdering her father with arsenic in 1752. Her case became a national sensation, with crowds flocking to the prison to catch a glimpse of the ‘Blandy parricide‘. Mary protested her innocence but was eventually executed by hanging in the castle yard before a crowd of 5,000 spectators.
Despite attempts at reform and rebuilding in the late 18th century, prisoners continued to suffer in overcrowded and unsanitary conditions well into the 19th century. Sir Walter Scott, visiting in 1821, wrote despairingly of the "wretched dungeons" and "narrow cells".
The prison population fluctuated but often reached several hundred. Records show that in 1842-43, a total of 514 prisoners passed through Oxford Prison, enduring cramped cells, hard labor and the ever-present threat of disease. The unfortunate few condemned to execution would have made their final journey from the prison to the gallows via the "Drop Room" – a tunnel leading directly to the site of public hangings, last used in 1863.
Escape and Investigation
Unsurprisingly, escape attempts were common. In 1327, a group of prisoners managed to overpower the guards and seize control of the keep for several days before surrendering. The most famous escapee was Rowland Bartholomew, a reprieved murderer who in 1869 succeeded in scaling the prison wall and going on the run – only to return voluntarily after three days, begging to be let back in to complete his sentence.
Oxford Prison finally closed its doors in 1996, after over 900 years of near-continuous use. But the fascinating stories continue to emerge. In 2017, archaeologists investigating the former prison grounds unearthed a human skull – later determined to belong to a woman executed at the castle in 1752. Research and investigations at the site are shedding ever more light on its turbulent past.
The Present and Future of Oxford Castle
Today, Oxford Castle has been reinvented as a unique visitor attraction, offering a journey into the site‘s remarkable history. Costumed character guides lead tours that bring the past vividly to life, from the 900-year-old crypt to the Saxon St George‘s Tower.
In 2019, over 110,000 visitors explored the castle and prison, making it one of Oxfordshire‘s most popular heritage attractions. Visitor numbers have steadily climbed over the last decade, reflecting the growing interest in so-called ‘dark tourism‘.
This trend has seen numerous former prisons across the globe, from Alcatraz in San Francisco to Kilmainham Gaol in Dublin, become major visitor attractions. As at Oxford Castle, these sites offer a unique lens through which to explore local history and confront uncomfortable truths about crime and punishment through the ages.
But Oxford Castle offers more than just history. The old prison buildings now host a luxury hotel, restaurants, bars and an education center. The heritage site has become a true community hub, with the old castle yard hosting events, performances and exhibitions.
There are ambitious plans for the castle‘s future too. Discussions are ongoing about the potential to further develop the site with a new museum, expanded educational facilities and a proposed ‘Justice Hub‘ that would build on the castle‘s legacy and integrate with the modern criminal justice system.
Nearly 1,000 years on from its foundation, Oxford Castle continues to surprise and inspire. By preserving and confronting the physical remains of the past, heritage sites like this play a vital role in our understanding of local and national history.
As an enduring symbol of Oxford‘s ‘secret history‘, far removed from the privilege and prestige of the university, the castle is a stark reminder of the many histories woven into the fabric of the city. To visit Oxford Castle is to uncover a story of cruelty and suffering, but also of resilience, reform and the ongoing fight to build a more just society.
The medieval fortress turned Victorian prison has found a new identity in the 21st century, but its power to provoke, educate and challenge remains undiminished. As we continue to explore and interpret its countless stories, Oxford Castle & Prison will undoubtedly keep drawing us in – a dark and complex past that continues to cast a long shadow.
References
- Davies, M. (1998). Stories of Oxford Castle: From Dungeon to Dunghill. Oxford: Oxford Towpath Press.
- Harman, A. (2015). Bloody British History: Oxford. Stroud: The History Press.
- Jebb, M. (2015). Inside: Life Behind Bars in Britain‘s Toughest Jails. London: Threshold Editions.
- Kohler, M. (2017). A Brief History of Oxford Castle. Oxford: Oxford Castle & Prison.
- Mynors, C. (1993). From Fortress to Prison: An Architectural History of Oxford Castle. Abingdon: Farnborough Press.
- Palliser, D.M. (2016). Oxford Castle: Heritage Site and Carceral Space. International Journal of Heritage Studies, 22(3), pp.179-190.
