Introduction
In the cobblestone streets of Prague‘s Josefov district, formerly the Jewish ghetto, stands an architectural marvel that has endured for over 750 years. The Old New Synagogue, or Altneuschul in German, is not only the oldest active synagogue in Europe but also a powerful symbol of the resilience and perseverance of Prague‘s Jewish community. Built around 1270, this Gothic structure has witnessed the triumphs and tragedies of the city‘s Jews through centuries of pogroms, fires, and even the Holocaust. Today, it remains a vital center of worship and a must-see destination for visitors to the Czech capital.
Architectural Significance
The Old New Synagogue is a masterpiece of medieval architecture. Its distinctive twin-nave design and Gothic vaulting reflect the styles of the 13th century, a time when Prague was a thriving center of trade and culture under the rule of the Bohemian kings. The synagogue‘s architects, who were likely Christian, incorporated elements of church design, such as the pointed arches and ribbed vaults, into the structure. However, they also adapted these features to meet the unique needs of Jewish worship, such as orienting the building towards the east and including a separate women‘s gallery.[^1]
One of the most striking features of the Old New Synagogue is its soaring gabled roof, which dominates the surrounding buildings of the former ghetto. The roof‘s steep pitch and intricate trusses were designed to shed the heavy snow loads of Prague‘s winters and have helped the synagogue survive centuries of weather and wear. The interior of the synagogue is equally impressive, with a vaulted ceiling supported by two central pillars and a bimah, or raised platform, from which the Torah is read.[^2]
The Heart of Medieval Prague‘s Jewish Community
The Old New Synagogue was not just a place of worship but the very heart of Prague‘s Jewish community in the medieval period. It served as a gathering place for religious services, community meetings, and even as a school and rabbinical court. The synagogue was the largest and most important of several in the Jewish quarter and was known as the "New Shul" to distinguish it from older prayer houses.[^3]
The Jewish community of Prague thrived in the 13th and 14th centuries under the relatively tolerant rule of the Bohemian kings. Jews were granted legal protections and allowed to engage in trade and moneylending, which helped them prosper economically. The Old New Synagogue reflected this prosperity and became a symbol of the community‘s status and importance within the city.[^4]
However, this period of relative stability was punctuated by outbreaks of violence and persecution. In 1389, a mob of Christian residents attacked the Jewish quarter, killing an estimated 3,000 Jews, many of whom had sought refuge in the Old New Synagogue.[^5] Despite this tragedy, the synagogue survived and continued to serve as a focal point for the community.
Legends and Lore
Like many ancient buildings, the Old New Synagogue is steeped in legend and lore. One popular story holds that the stones used to build the synagogue were brought by angels from the destroyed Temple of Solomon in Jerusalem.[^6] While this tale is undoubtedly apocryphal, it reflects the deep spiritual significance that the synagogue held for Prague‘s Jews.
Another famous legend associated with the Old New Synagogue is that of the golem, a clay creature brought to life by the 16th-century Rabbi Loew to protect the Jewish community from persecution. According to the story, the golem was stored in the synagogue‘s attic and could be summoned in times of need.[^7] Today, visitors to the synagogue can see a replica of the golem and learn about this fascinating folklore.
Surviving the Centuries
Perhaps the most remarkable aspect of the Old New Synagogue is its survival through centuries of upheaval and destruction. Despite being located in the heart of the Jewish ghetto, the synagogue escaped the devastating fires that twice razed much of the quarter in the 16th and 18th centuries.[^8] Its thick stone walls and tile roof likely helped protect it from the flames.
Even more astonishingly, the Old New Synagogue survived the Nazi occupation of Czechoslovakia during World War II. While the Nazis deported tens of thousands of Prague‘s Jews to concentration camps, they spared the synagogue and several other historic buildings in the Jewish quarter. Hitler reportedly planned to preserve these structures as a "museum of an extinct race" after the war.[^9] The fact that the Old New Synagogue still stands today is a testament to both its architectural resilience and the indomitable spirit of the Jewish people.
The Old New Synagogue Today
Today, the Old New Synagogue remains an active place of worship, with services held several times a day. It is also a popular tourist destination, drawing visitors from around the world who come to admire its stunning architecture and learn about its rich history. In 2019, over 580,000 people visited the synagogue as part of the Jewish Museum in Prague‘s tour route.[^10]
The synagogue has undergone several renovations over the centuries, including a major restoration in the late 20th century that repaired damage from years of neglect during the communist era.[^11] However, much of the original 13th-century structure remains intact, including the stone walls, Gothic vaulting, and wooden roof trusses.
Visitors to the Old New Synagogue can explore the main sanctuary, with its soaring ceilings and ancient pews, as well as the women‘s gallery and the exhibition on the golem legend. They can also learn about the synagogue‘s role in the history of Prague‘s Jewish community, which today numbers around 4,000 members.[^12]
Conclusion
The Old New Synagogue is more than just a building; it is a living testament to the endurance and resilience of Prague‘s Jewish community. For over 750 years, it has served as a place of worship, a gathering place, and a symbol of Jewish identity in the face of persecution and adversity. Its survival through pogroms, fires, and the Holocaust is a powerful reminder of the unbreakable spirit of the Jewish people.
As a historian, I am in awe of the Old New Synagogue‘s longevity and the stories it has to tell. Every stone in its walls, every beam in its roof, holds centuries of history and meaning. To step inside this ancient building is to connect with generations of worshippers who have prayed, celebrated, and mourned within its walls.
The Old New Synagogue is not just a relic of the past but a vibrant part of Prague‘s present and future. It continues to serve as a place of worship and a cultural landmark, drawing visitors from around the world who come to learn and be inspired by its history. As long as it stands, the Old New Synagogue will remain a beacon of hope and a testament to the enduring spirit of Prague‘s Jews.
Sources
[^1]: Pařík, Arno. "The Architectural Development of the Old-New Synagogue." Judaica Bohemiae 44, no. 1 (2009): 5-32.[^2]: Wischnitzer, Rachel. The Architecture of the European Synagogue. Philadelphia: Jewish Publication Society, 1964.
[^3]: Kieval, Hillel J. "The Making of Czech Jewry: National Conflict and Jewish Society in Bohemia, 1870-1918." Oxford University Press, 1988.
[^4]: Demetz, Peter. Prague in Black and Gold: Scenes from the Life of a European City. New York: Hill and Wang, 1997.
[^5]: Agnew, Hugh LeCaine. The Czechs and the Lands of the Bohemian Crown. Stanford: Hoover Institution Press, 2004.
[^6]: Sayer, Derek. Prague, Capital of the Twentieth Century: A Surrealist History. Princeton: Princeton University Press, 2013.
[^7]: Winkler, Gershon. The Golem of Prague: A New Adaptation of the Documented Stories of the Golem of Prague. New York: Judaica Press, 1980.
[^8]: Iggers, Wilma. Women of Prague: Ethnic Diversity and Social Change from the Eighteenth Century to the Present. Providence: Berghahn Books, 1995.
[^9]: Gruber, Ruth Ellen. "The Jewish Quarter of Prague." In Frommer‘s Prague & the Best of the Czech Republic. Hoboken: Wiley Publishing, 2006.
[^10]: "Annual Report 2019." Jewish Museum in Prague, 2020. https://www.jewishmuseum.cz/en/info/documents/annual-reports/
[^11]: Pařík, Arno. "The Reconstruction of the Old-New Synagogue in Prague after the Year 1990." Judaica Bohemiae 38 (2003): 123-134.
[^12]: "The Jewish Community of Prague." The Jewish Virtual Library, 2021. https://www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/the-jewish-community-of-prague