Perched on the edge of Holyrood Park in the charming village of Duddingston, Edinburgh‘s Sheep Heid Inn has been a beloved local landmark for over six and a half centuries. As the oldest surviving public house in Scotland and one of the oldest continuously operating pubs in the world, the Sheep Heid is a living testament to the rich tapestry of Edinburgh‘s history, having born witness to countless tumultuous events and larger-than-life personalities over the generations.
A Pub By Any Other Name: The Sheep Heid‘s Quirky Origins
The unusual moniker "Sheep Heid" is believed to be a reference to the pub‘s early days in the medieval era, when Duddingston was known as a major center for sheep rearing and processing. According to local legend, thrifty cooks would often make use of the leftover sheep heads ("heids" in Scots) to create a nourishing soup called powsowdie or powsodie.
The earliest known written record of the pub dates back to 1360, but some historians believe it may have existed in some form as early as the 1320s. In those days, it was common for small alehouses and inns to spring up alongside major roads to cater to weary travelers. Located along the main route between Edinburgh and the port of Leith, Duddingston would have been a natural stopover point.
Over time, the Sheep Heid evolved from a humble roadside inn to a fashionable country retreat on the outskirts of a growing metropolis. By the 1580s, it had caught the attention of the Scottish royal family, with Mary Queen of Scots and her son King James VI (later also James I of England) said to be regular patrons.
According to one popular tale, in 1580 King James gifted the Sheep Heid‘s landlord an ornate ram‘s head snuff box to show his appreciation for the establishment. Some have speculated that this gesture may have further cemented the pub‘s identity and namesake.
A Who‘s Who of Scottish Icons
In addition to playing host to royalty, the Sheep Heid has also welcomed a veritable who‘s who of Scottish cultural icons over the centuries. Two of Scotland‘s most celebrated literary figures, Robert Burns and Sir Walter Scott, are known to have been regulars in the late 18th century.
In a letter to a friend in 1787, Burns wrote of the Sheep Heid, "I have been in a State of the most delicious Intoxication for some days past — not Drunk, in the gross vulgar sense — but a delightful glow of Mind & frame that I never before experienced." Burns was reportedly so enamored of the pub that he etched a line of verse into one of the window panes using a diamond stylus.
Sir Walter Scott, too, found creative inspiration at the Sheep Heid. In his 1818 novel "The Heart of Midlothian," Scott wove the pub into the narrative, writing: "The antique Sheep‘s-head sign-post was swinging in the wind, and as they passed under it, David could not but think of the description of Dame Ursula‘s inn, in the old play of the Merry Devil of Edmonton."
But perhaps one of the most intriguing chapters in the Sheep Heid‘s storied past involves a visit from Bonnie Prince Charlie in 1745. As the young Stuart prince marched his army towards Edinburgh in a bid to reclaim the British throne, he set up camp in Duddingston for several weeks. Legend has it that Charlie would often slip away to the Sheep Heid for a pint or two during his stay.
In her 1905 book "The Sheephead Inn," local historian Ellen Murray recounts a colorful anecdote from Charlie‘s time at the pub. According to Murray, one evening the prince became so inebriated that he tumbled into the fireplace, scorching his wig. The quick-thinking landlady promptly doused the smoldering hairpiece in ale, saving Charlie from a potentially embarrassing (and flammable) predicament.
Scotland‘s Oldest Bowling Alley
Aside from its regal and literary heritage, the Sheep Heid boasts another claim to fame: it is home to Scotland‘s oldest surviving bowling alley. Constructed in 1880, the Victorian-era lanes are still in use today, offering patrons a truly unique opportunity to step back in time and enjoy a game of skittles (an early form of bowling) using authentic 19th-century equipment.
The bowling alley was originally built by the then-landlord, George Sneddon, as a way to attract more customers to the pub. In those days, bowling was a popular pastime among the working classes, and the addition of the lanes helped to cement the Sheep Heid‘s status as a community hub.
Today, visitors can rent out the historic alley for private events or simply drop in for a casual game. The pub even hosts regular skittles tournaments and leagues, keeping the tradition alive for a new generation of enthusiasts.
A Pub for the Ages
Over the centuries, the Sheep Heid has weathered its fair share of challenges and changes. It has endured wars, economic upheavals, and shifting social mores, all while maintaining its essential character and charm.
In recent years, the pub has continued to garner accolades and attract high-profile visitors. In 2013, it was named Scottish Pub of the Year by the Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA), a testament to its enduring appeal and commitment to quality.
And in 2016, the Sheep Heid received perhaps its most illustrious guest in recent memory: Queen Elizabeth II herself. The Queen, who had spent the day at the nearby Musselburgh Racecourse, surprised patrons and staff alike when she dropped in for a casual lunch with her entourage.
But for all its brushes with fame and grandeur, the Sheep Heid remains, at its heart, a welcoming and unpretentious neighborhood pub. The current owners, Mitchells & Butlers, have taken great care to preserve the pub‘s historic features and atmosphere while also introducing modern amenities and a fresh, seasonal menu.
The pub‘s interior is a study in cozy, rustic charm, with low beamed ceilings, stone fireplaces, and worn wooden floors that creak with centuries of stories. The walls are adorned with vintage photographs, antique maps, and other curios that hint at the Sheep Heid‘s colorful past.
On a typical day, the pub buzzes with a lively mix of locals, tourists, and university students, all drawn to its warm ambiance, excellent food and drink selection, and palpable sense of history. The bar boasts an impressive array of real ales, malt whiskies, and Scottish craft gins, while the kitchen turns out elevated pub classics like lamb shank pie, Cullen skink (a traditional Scottish fish soup), and of course, haggis.
But perhaps the real magic of the Sheep Heid lies in its ability to transport visitors to another era entirely. As you sip a pint by the crackling fire or enjoy a leisurely game of skittles, it‘s easy to imagine all the generations of Edinburghers who have done just the same over the centuries, from medieval travelers and Enlightenment-era intellectuals to modern-day locals and international tourists.
In a city as steeped in history as Edinburgh, the Sheep Heid Inn stands out as a true icon, a living connection to the people, events, and traditions that have shaped this ancient capital over the centuries. It is a place where the past and present mingle seamlessly, where every nook and cranny seems to hold a story waiting to be told.
As Robert Louis Stevenson, another famous patron of the Sheep Heid, once wrote: "The past is all around us, not behind us." At the Sheep Heid Inn, that sentiment feels especially true. By crossing its time-worn threshold, we are not just entering a pub, but a portal into Edinburgh‘s rich and enduring legacy – a legacy that continues to be written with each new generation of patrons who find their way to this extraordinary place.
Visiting the Sheep Heid Inn Today
Whether you‘re a history buff, a literary pilgrim, or simply someone in search of a quintessential Scottish pub experience, the Sheep Heid Inn is not to be missed. Located just a stone‘s throw from the heart of Edinburgh, it makes for an easy and rewarding day trip or a memorable stop on a longer itinerary.
To reach the pub from Edinburgh‘s city center, you can either embark on a scenic 50-minute walk through the winding medieval streets of the Old Town and along the edge of Holyrood Park, or hop on one of several buses that will whisk you to Duddingston in about half an hour. If you‘re driving, the journey via London Road and the A1 motorway takes approximately 15 minutes.
Once you arrive in Duddingston, you‘ll find the Sheep Heid Inn nestled at the end of a charming cobblestone lane, surrounded by quaint cottages and lush gardens. On a sunny day, the pub‘s beer garden is the perfect spot to enjoy a pint and soak up the village‘s tranquil atmosphere.
If you‘re feeling peckish, the Sheep Heid‘s menu offers a tempting array of classic pub fare and Scottish specialties, all crafted with locally sourced ingredients whenever possible. Some standout dishes include the venison sausage and mash, the haggis bon bons, and the sticky toffee pudding.
Of course, no visit to the Sheep Heid would be complete without a game of skittles in the historic bowling alley. The pub offers lane rentals by the hour, which include the use of vintage balls and pins and a brief lesson on the rules of the game. It‘s a wonderfully whimsical way to immerse yourself in a bygone era and channel your inner Victorian sportsman.
Before or after your visit to the pub, be sure to take some time to explore the surrounding area as well. Duddingston Village itself is a hidden gem, with its picturesque cottages, ancient kirk (church), and lovely gardens. A short stroll will bring you to the shores of Duddingston Loch, a tranquil oasis that‘s home to a variety of waterfowl and a popular spot for fishing and picnicking.
Just beyond the village lies the vast expanse of Holyrood Park, a rugged, wild landscape of hills, lochs, and glens that feels a world away from the bustle of the city. Hike to the top of Arthur‘s Seat, an extinct volcano that offers breathtaking panoramic views of Edinburgh and the Firth of Forth, or explore the haunting ruins of St. Anthony‘s Chapel, a 15th-century hermitage perched on a rocky outcrop.
And of course, no visit to the area would be complete without a stop at the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the official Scottish residence of the British monarch. This sprawling baroque masterpiece has played host to some of the most dramatic episodes in Scottish history, from the tumultuous reign of Mary Queen of Scots to the Jacobite uprising of 1745. Today, visitors can tour the palace‘s opulent state apartments, admire the exquisite royal art collection, and stroll through the lush palace gardens.
A Testament to Endurance and Community
In a world that often feels increasingly fragmented and fast-paced, places like the Sheep Heid Inn serve as vital anchors, connecting us to our shared heritage and to each other. For over 650 years, this unassuming little pub has been a constant presence in the life of its community, a place where people from all walks of life have gathered to share a meal, a story, or a laugh.
It has witnessed the rise and fall of kingdoms, the birth of new ideas and movements, and the everyday joys and sorrows of countless generations. Through it all, it has remained a steadfast beacon of warmth, tradition, and fellowship.
In many ways, the Sheep Heid Inn embodies the very essence of Edinburgh itself – a city that has endured centuries of change and upheaval, yet has always managed to retain its unique character and spirit. Like the pub, Edinburgh is a place where the past and present are deeply intertwined, where history is not just a distant memory but a living, breathing part of everyday life.
As we look to the future and grapple with the challenges and uncertainties of our own time, places like the Sheep Heid Inn remind us of the enduring power of community, tradition, and shared experience. They offer us a sense of rootedness and continuity in an ever-changing world, and a reminder that even the most humble and unassuming places can hold within them the stories and spirits of generations.
So the next time you find yourself in Edinburgh, be sure to make your way to the Sheep Heid Inn. Raise a glass to the countless souls who have passed through its doors over the centuries, and savor the timeless magic of this extraordinary place. Who knows – you might just be making a little bit of history yourself.
