Beneath the otherworldly landscape of Cappadocia in central Turkey lies a hidden world that‘s equally as captivating as the region‘s famous "fairy chimney" rock formations. Here, carved into the very earth, are entire underground cities where thousands of people once lived, worked, and sought refuge. While the most visited of these subterranean marvels are Derinkuyu and Kaymaklı, the lesser-known Özkonak Underground City offers an intimate glimpse into this fascinating chapter of human history.
History of Cappadocia‘s Underground Cities
The exact origins of Cappadocia‘s 200+ underground cities remain shrouded in mystery, but most historians agree they were likely first excavated during the Byzantine era of the 6th-11th centuries AD. During this tumultuous time, the region was frequently subjected to raids and invasions from various groups including the Persians, Arabs, and Seljuk Turks. The underground cities provided a defensible refuge where entire towns could retreat and seal themselves off from the surface during attacks.
However, some archaeologists believe the oldest tunnels may date back even further to the Hittites of the Bronze Age, or the Phrygians of the 8th-7th centuries BC. The true origins are difficult to determine with certainty due to the many layers of history and successive waves of excavation and expansion.
What we do know is that by the Byzantine era, underground living had become a well-established practice in Cappadocia. As renowned scholar Spyros Pagidas explains, "The underground cities of Cappadocia were not a spontaneous response to insecurity, but the product of a long-standing living tradition that had evolved over centuries."
Life in an Underground City
At its peak, Özkonak likely housed several thousand residents across its 10 known levels descending over 40 meters deep. The city contained all the facilities needed to support the population indefinitely including stables, storage chambers, kitchens, wineries, wells, and even a missionary school and church.
Expertly carved passageways connected the various living chambers and communal spaces. These tight, twisting tunnels were deliberately designed to confuse and trap intruders. Massive rolling stone doors weighing up to 500 kilograms could quickly seal off sections under threat. Holes in the ceilings provided ventilation and communication between levels, but also allowed defenders to pour hot oil on attackers below.
Food storage was critical and Özkonak had ample space to stockpile grains, dried goods, and wine. Many rooms still contain large stone basins and troughs likely used for food and water. Remarkably, fresh air was circulated throughout the complex via an extensive network of ventilation shafts. Some were disguised as wells, while others were hidden amongst the surface houses for added secrecy.
Archaeologist Roberto Bixio, who has studied Cappadocia‘s underground cities extensively, marvels at their sophistication: "Each city was a remarkable feat of engineering. The planning, organization, and sheer effort required to create these underground complexes is astounding, especially considering the limited tools and technology of the time."
Özkonak‘s Layout and Features
Özkonak is smaller in scale than Derinkuyu or Kaymaklı but contains many of the same impressive features:
- 10 floors descending 40+ meters
- 4 entrances hidden in surface structures
- 60+ rooms including living quarters, stables, storage, kitchens, winery, church
- Vast network of narrow, intentionally confusing passageways
- 28 massive rolling stone doors
- 6 ventilation shafts doubling as communication channels and defensive "murder holes"
- Water well reaching over 50 meters deep
One unique aspect of Özkonak is a spacious room believed to have served as a missionary school, featuring a stone podium likely used for religious instruction. This hints at the role underground cities played in safeguarding early Christian communities.
Rediscovery and Research
Like many underground cities, Özkonak was abandoned and forgotten for centuries as the region‘s political situation stabilized and the need for subterranean refuge waned. The entrances were sealed and surface dwellings were built atop the old tunnels.
That all changed in 1972 when a local farmer noticed cool air flowing from a crack in his field. Curiosity led him to start digging, eventually revealing a small tunnel that led to a vast underground network. Experts were called in, and excavations soon uncovered the stunning scope and sophistication of this ancient underground city.
Since then, archaeologists and historians have been working to study, restore, and share Özkonak with the world. According to Dr. Murat Gülyaz, Director of the Nevşehir Museum, "Although much has been learned, many mysteries still remain about the origins, evolution, and eventual abandonment of these underground cities. Ongoing research and new technologies like ground-penetrating radar are revealing new insights every year."
The Underground City Experience
Today, visitors to Cappadocia have the opportunity to explore Özkonak and step into the fascinating world of Byzantine underground living. Much of the city has been carefully restored and equipped with walkways, lighting, and informational signage.
Descending into the cool, hushed depths, it‘s impossible not to marvel at the ingenuity and determination of the long-ago residents. The labyrinth of tunnels and chambers seem to go on endlessly. Despite the initial claustrophobia, there‘s a palpable sense of community in the grand gathering spaces and shared cooking areas.
Gazing up at the perfectly carved ventilation shafts, you can almost hear the whispers of ancient voices and imagine the city teeming with life. It‘s a testament to human resilience and adaptability – a story of ordinary people coming together to forge a life in the most extraordinary of circumstances.
Visiting Özkonak Underground City
Özkonak Underground City is located in the village of Özkonak, about 14 km northeast of Avanos in Turkey‘s Nevşehir Province. If you don‘t have a rental car, local buses run regularly from Avanos for a few Turkish lira. Check with your hotel or the bus station for the current schedule.
As of 2024, admission costs 50 Turkish lira and includes a guided tour available in multiple languages. The site is open from 8:00 to 19:00 from April to October and 8:00 to 17:00 from November to March. The underground chambers maintain a constant cool temperature, so bring a light jacket.
Allow at least an hour to explore the accessible sections of the city. Stairs and walkways can be steep and uneven at times, so wear sturdy shoes and watch your step. For safety reasons, access to some of the lower, unrestored levels is restricted.
A Window into the Past
Cappadocia‘s underground cities offer a fascinating glimpse into a past world where survival meant seeking safety below the earth. They stand as remarkable examples of human ingenuity, resilience, and the enduring quest for community in the face of adversity.
Özkonak Underground City, with its winding passages and echoing chambers, invites us to step into this captivating chapter of history. To walk in the footsteps of the Byzantine residents, marvel at their architectural prowess, and ponder the joys and hardships of their underground existence.
In a world where we increasingly look skyward to the future, Özkonak reminds us of the incredible stories waiting to be discovered in the depths of our shared past. It‘s a journey through time and a testament to the indomitable human spirit – one that‘s well worth taking for any curious traveler to Cappadocia.
