Nestled in the heart of Rome, just a short walk from the iconic Colosseum, lies the Basilica of San Clemente. This 12th-century church, with its stunning mosaics and frescoes, is a treasure trove of art and history. But the true marvel of San Clemente lies beneath its surface, where a descending series of excavations reveals layer upon layer of Roman history, spanning from the 1st century to the Middle Ages.
A Timeline of Transformation
The story of San Clemente is a fascinating journey through time. It begins in the 1st century AD with a Roman house owned by Titus Flavius Clemens, a wealthy Christian convert and senator. At a time when Christianity was still outlawed, Clemens‘ home served as a secret gathering place for worship.
Fast forward to the 2nd century, and the site underwent a dramatic transformation. A temple dedicated to Mithras, a popular deity among Roman soldiers, was built on the same spot. The Mithraeum, as it was called, remained active until the late 3rd century.
With the legalization of Christianity in 313 AD under Emperor Constantine, the site entered a new phase. In the late 4th century, Pope Siricius commissioned the construction of a basilica on the second floor of the old Roman house. This church would serve the community for centuries until 1084, when it was heavily damaged during the Norman sack of Rome. Abandoned and buried beneath the city‘s rising street levels, it would remain hidden for nearly 800 years.
The Basilica of San Clemente: A Masterpiece of Medieval Art
In the early 12th century, Pope Paschal II ordered the construction of a new church on the site, unaware of the rich history lying beneath. The result is the breathtaking Basilica of San Clemente that we see today.
The interior of the church is a masterpiece of medieval art. The apse mosaic, dating back to the 12th century, depicts the Triumph of the Cross, with Christ crucified on a cross that sprouts acanthus leaves and flowers. The nave frescoes, painted in the 15th century, illustrate scenes from the life of Saint Clement, the 1st-century pope and patron of the church.
Discovering the Past: The Excavations of San Clemente
The true depths of San Clemente‘s history were revealed in the 19th century. In 1857, Father Joseph Mullooly, then prior of San Clemente, began excavations beneath the present basilica. His work uncovered the remains of the 4th-century church and the even older ruins beneath it.
Further excavations in 1912-1914 by Father Louis Nolan revealed a fourth layer: the remains of 1st-century Roman buildings destroyed in the Great Fire of 64 AD. These excavations provided an unprecedented glimpse into the layering of Roman history.
Exploring the Depths of History
Today, visitors to San Clemente can descend into these excavations, stepping back in time with each level. The 4th-century basilica, though heavily damaged, still boasts faded frescoes depicting the life of Saint Clement. Further down, one can explore the 1st-century Roman house and the Mithraeum, with its well-preserved altar depicting Mithras slaying a bull.
At the lowest level, the sound of rushing water echoes through the chambers. This is the flow of an ancient underground river, a reminder of the world that existed here nearly 2,000 years ago.
A Testament to Rome‘s Layered Past
San Clemente is not alone in its layered history. Many churches in Rome, such as the Basilica of San Nicola in Carcere and the Basilica of Santi Quattro Coronati, are built on top of ancient Roman ruins. However, few sites offer such a clear and accessible journey through time as San Clemente.
As archaeologist and historian Roberto Luciani notes, "San Clemente is a unique testament to the continuity and evolution of Roman history. It‘s a place where you can literally walk through the centuries, from the Roman Empire to the Middle Ages."
Plan Your Visit
San Clemente is open daily from 9:00 AM to 12:30 PM and 3:00 PM to 6:00 PM. Admission to the basilica is free, but there is a small fee to access the excavations (€10 for adults, €5 for students and seniors). Guided tours are available for an additional fee and provide a deeper insight into the site‘s history and significance.
To reach San Clemente, take the metro to the Colosseo stop, or catch one of several buses (85, 87, 117, 186, 810, or 850) that stop nearby.
A Journey Through Time
As you descend the steps into San Clemente‘s excavations, you‘re not just exploring ruins. You‘re embarking on a journey through time, witnessing firsthand the evolution of Rome from a pagan empire to a Christian capital. Each layer reveals a new chapter in the city‘s history, offering a tangible connection to the past.
In the words of 19th-century French writer Stendhal, "If you have not seen San Clemente, you have not seen Rome." So step into this remarkable basilica, and let its layers of history transport you through the centuries. In San Clemente, the past is never far from the surface.