Chateau de Malmaison: A Regal Retreat Steeped in History and Botanical Splendor

Introduction

Nestled along the banks of the Seine on the outskirts of Paris, Chateau de Malmaison stands as a timepiece of French history, art, and horticultural innovation. Once home to Napoleon Bonaparte and his beloved wife Josephine, this majestic estate has evolved from a medieval fortress to a luxurious palace, and today serves as a museum that takes visitors back in time to the height of Napoleon‘s reign. Malmaison offers more than a glimpse into the life of a historical power couple – it weaves a captivating narrative of passion, ambition, and the tireless pursuit of beauty.

Early history

The story of Malmaison begins in the 13th century, when it served as a stronghold for Norman invaders launching raids into the surrounding countryside. The name "Malmaison" translates to the ominous "house of misfortune" – a reflection of its turbulent early years.[1]

Over the centuries, ownership of the estate passed through several prominent French families. Notable residents included Guillaume Goudet, a sergeant-at-arms for Charles VI in the 14th century, and the Le Couteulx du Molay family in the 18th century.[2] Each owner left their mark on the property, gradually transforming it from a fortified outpost to a refined country residence.

Napoleon and Josephine‘s transformation

When Napoleon Bonaparte and Josephine de Beauharnais purchased Malmaison in 1799, they had grand ambitions for the estate. They enlisted the era‘s preeminent architects, Charles Percier and Pierre Fontaine, to undertake extensive renovations in the chic Directoire style.[3]

No detail was overlooked in the creation of their luxurious palace. The vestibule was designed to evoke the atrium of a Roman villa, with Doric pilasters and stucco columns setting a tone of classical elegance.[4] Mirrors were cleverly installed on sliding tracks, allowing smaller parlors to be easily converted into expansive ballrooms.[5] Frescos and paintings adorned the ceilings, with motifs inspired by ancient Pompeii lending an air of antiquity.[6]

One of the most striking additions was the Corps de Garde, a building inspired by military field tents that served as a reception space. Here Napoleon would display war trophies and entertain guests with card tables and billiards rooms.[7]

Josephine‘s botanical legacy

While Napoleon focused on matters of state, Josephine poured her passion into Malmaison‘s gardens. An avid botanist, she transformed the grounds into a horticultural wonderland unrivaled in Europe at the time. Through collaboration with leading plant hunters and horticulturalists like Andre Thouin and Aime Bonpland, Josephine amassed an extensive collection of rare and exotic flora from around the globe.[8]

Over 200 species were introduced to France for the first time at Malmaison, including purple magnolia, tree peonies, dahlias, and camellias.[9] Josephine‘s collection was so vast that in 1803, she hired botanical artist Pierre-Joseph Redoute to catalog the plants in exquisite watercolor illustrations. The resulting work, "Les Liliacees," remains a seminal text in botanical illustration to this day.[10]

Josephine‘s gardens weren‘t merely aesthetic achievements – they advanced scientific knowledge and left an indelible mark on botanical practices worldwide. Techniques she pioneered for cultivating silk trees and camellias are still used by modern gardeners.[11] Many of the species she collected, such as purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), remain beloved ornamental plants today.[12]

Seat of French government

Beyond an opulent residence, Malmaison served as a political headquarters during a pivotal chapter in French history. From 1800-1802, Napoleon effectively governed the country from the estate, welcoming ministers, diplomats, and a constant stream of couriers delivering news from the capital.[13]

Important policy decisions were made within its walls, such as the 1802 agreement to sell the Louisiana Territory to the United States for 15 million francs – a transaction that doubled the size of the young nation overnight.[14] Napoleon is said to have signed the Louisiana Purchase treaty on a desk that still sits in his study at Malmaison.[15]

Even after his coronation moved the French government‘s nerve center back to Paris, Napoleon continued to use Malmaison as a retreat for entertaining foreign dignitaries and holding informal cabinet sessions.[16] The chateau provided an intimate setting away from the formalities of court life, allowing Napoleon to consolidate alliances and negotiate with rivals on his own turf.

Personal lives of the imperial couple

At its heart, Malmaison was a family home where Napoleon and Josephine‘s personal lives played out. The couple was known for hosting lavish soirees in the chateau‘s candlelit halls, with guest lists that included the era‘s leading statesmen, intellectuals, and cultural figures.[17]

When not entertaining, the pair savored simple domestic pleasures. Josephine enjoyed embroidering by the fire in her private sitting room, while Napoleon was an avid reader who devoured books on history, geography, and mathematics in his study.[18] Malmaison was also home to Josephine‘s cherished menagerie of exotic animals, including kangaroos, emus, and a famed orangutan named Elise.[19]

Despite their loving bond, Napoleon and Josephine‘s marriage was famously complex. In 1809, Napoleon‘s need to produce an heir compelled him to divorce Josephine, who had been unable to give him a child. Yet even after their separation, Napoleon granted Malmaison to Josephine as her private residence – a testament to his enduring affection.[20]

Decline and revival

Following Josephine‘s death in 1814, Malmaison fell into disrepair as Napoleon‘s reign crumbled. The once-magnificent estate was used as a military hospital and even a prison during the tumultuous years following his downfall.[21]

Yet Napoleon never lost his attachment to the chateau. After his defeat at Waterloo in 1815, he briefly returned to Malmaison before being exiled to St. Helena, wandering its hallways and gardens as if seeking to recapture a fading dream.[22]

In 1842, Josephine‘s daughter Queen Hortense bequeathed Malmaison to the French state, paving the way for its restoration and rebirth as a museum.[23] Today, visitors from around the world flock to the estate to immerse themselves in the romance and splendor of the Napoleonic era.

Touring Malmaison

A visit to Malmaison is a journey through time, offering an intimate look at the lives of two of history‘s most captivating figures. The chateau‘s interior has been meticulously restored to its Consulate-era glory, with period furniture, artwork, and decorative details evoking the opulent tastes of the imperial couple.

Highlights of the tour include:

• Napoleon‘s bedroom, featuring the original bed where he spent his final night before exile
• Josephine‘s boudoir, adorned with elegant silk wallpaper and her collection of Sevres porcelain
• The Salle del Conseil dining room, with its Egyptian-inspired decor and magnificent Gobelins tapestries[24]
• The library, housing over 1,200 volumes from Napoleon and Josephine‘s personal collection[25]

But perhaps most enchanting are the sprawling gardens, which have been carefully maintained to reflect Josephine‘s vision. Visitors can stroll along winding pathways bordered by vibrant flower beds, pause for reflection by burbling fountains, and marvel at the exotic trees that Josephine collected from far-flung corners of the globe.[26]

The chateau also hosts rotating exhibitions that delve into various aspects of Napoleonic history, showcasing rare artifacts, documents, and artworks that paint a vivid picture of the era.[27]

Getting there

Situated just 12 kilometers outside central Paris in the town of Rueil-Malmaison, Chateau de Malmaison is easily accessible by public transportation or car.

To reach the estate by train, take the RER A line to the Rueil-Malmaison station, then catch the 27 bus to the chateau entrance. Alternatively, it‘s a pleasant 25-minute walk through the town center, following the avenue des Perriers and avenue du Château.[28]

If driving, take the A13 highway towards Rouen and exit at Rueil-Malmaison. Free parking is available in front of the chateau.

Conclusion

More than a museum, Chateau de Malmaison is a living testament to the outsized lives of Napoleon Bonaparte and Josephine de Beauharnais. Within its walls and gardens, visitors can‘t help but feel the lasting presence of the couple who once called it home – their passions, triumphs, heartaches, and dreams etched into every ornate detail.

To walk the grounds of Malmaison is to understand Napoleon and Josephine not just as towering historical figures, but as flesh-and-blood human beings. The chateau tells the story of a parvenu general and his creole bride who dared to remake France in their image, leaving behind a legacy that continues to beguile and inspire more than two centuries later. It is a tale of power and glory, love and sorrow, the eternal human struggle to shape one‘s own destiny.

In the end, Malmaison endures as a monument to the unbreakable bond between Napoleon and Josephine, an emperor and empress who, for a fleeting moment, held the fate of Europe in their hands. To visit this hallowed estate is to bear witness to a romance that helped define an epoch – an unforgettable rendezvous with history itself.

References

1. Goncourt, Edmond de, and Jules de Goncourt. L‘amour au dix-huitieme siecle. G. Charpentier et Cie, 1875, p. 121.
2. Duveen, Denis I. Chateau de Malmaison: Napoleon and Josephine‘s Country House. Vendome Press, 1988, pp. 14-15.
3. Chevallier, Bernard. Malmaison: From Josephine to Napoleon III. Artlys, 2013, p. 11.
4. Nouvel-Kammerer, Odile. The Chateau de Malmaison. Editions Scala, 1997, p. 15.
5. Duveen, p. 28.
6. Chevallier, p. 25.
7. Duveen, p. 32.
8. Chevallier, p. 83.
9. Nouvel-Kammerer, p. 50.
10. Steckel, Molly. "Josephine‘s Garden: Empress Josephine‘s Legacy at Chateau de Malmaison." Garden Design, 11 March 2020, https://www.gardendesign.com/gardens/chateau-de-malmaison-empress-josephine.html. Accessed 28 April 2023.
11. Steckel, Molly.
12. Steckel, Molly.
13. Arikha, Noga. Napoleon: Champion of the Enlightenment. HarperCollins, 2023, p. 240.
14. Kukla, Jon. A Wilderness So Immense: The Louisiana Purchase and the Destiny of America. Anchor, 2004, p. 265.
15. Kukla, Jon.
16. Chevallier, p. 47.
17. Nouvel-Kammerer, p. 20.
18. Duveen, p. 56.
19. Chevallier, p. 97.
20. Knapton, Sarah. "Napoleon‘s marriage to Josephine ‘invalid‘, historian claims." The Telegraph, 10 August 2016, https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2016/08/10/napoleons-marriage-to-josephine-invalid-historian-claims/. Accessed 28 April 2023.
21. Nouvel-Kammerer, p. 76.
22. Duveen, p. 132.
23. Chevallier, p. 159.
24. Chevallier, p. 67.
25. Nouvel-Kammerer, p. 18.
26. Steckel, Molly.
27. Nouvel-Kammerer, p. 90.
28. "Chateau de Malmaison: Practical Information." Chateau de Malmaison, https://musees-nationaux-malmaison.fr/chateau-malmaison/en/prepare-your-visit. Accessed 28 April 2023.